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by Gloree Rohnke and Michael Terrien Dobradan. A good day to you all! It has been a challenge as to how to share the richness of the trip to the Balkan region with you all. The trip covers two weeks, four countries, multiple kilometers of countryside, a variety or people, and a host of feelings, experiences, and impressions. We have chosen to chronicle those impressions that you may create your own pictures with which to respond and participate in some of our highlighted moments. Chronology of Impressions: Balkan Region May 3-17, 1998-- May 3- Finally on my way. A long drive to Boston...adrenaline spurring my wakefulness-so many last minute decisions... Airline tickets erroneously delivered Saturday at the post office. Waiting at the gate of the Hungarian Airlines, where is Michael? Once again, do I board a plane on faith? Waiting, watching...he has arrived! Michael's story: a misplaced passport, frantic packing and hurried farewells...a late plane flight. All's well...we are on our way. A familiar flight yet foreign - language, people, clothes, food. Who is Michael? Who is Gloree? Partners in purpose begin their team building process. Jewish prayers to comfort little naps. May 4- Budapest, a step into another world. Slower paced, more medieval, the beginning of an unexpected spiritual journey. A cleansing rain of promise...A castle, bridges over the Danube, and a misunderstood lunch order, one lunch for two. Travel across Hungary - villages, bicycles, elderly peasants, inquisitive faces filled with character, miles of maintained fields, vineyards, magpies - Tired, Tired, Tired. A long rest in Baja. Are we really here? May 5- Through customs and immigration to Yugoslavia. Belgrade bustles, drab, traffic, a maze of streets. IOCC hospitality as reflects the ever-present cultural norm. Meeting Dragon Tadic and Mark Schnellenbacher. Adapting to an interpreter. The Refugee Center children play session - shaking hands, gleefully muddling their names...Little faces with lost innocence. Male youth - respectful, patient, sharing laughter and then the PFP purpose. Will an hour introduction be enough? An unexpected Romany holiday offers a day of planning...Wine, cheese, salad, bread - diet mainstays to enjoy with local music. The value of reflection - something to reflect upon. May 6- Building relationship with IOCC, wandering through Belgrade's history, planning in the park, feeling the heat of a hundred burning candles in an ancient Orthodox Church. "Things are seldom what they seem" - the charm and novelty in an outdoor cafe - to be marred several days later by thug arrogance denigrating patrons by stealing pizza from their order...The beginning awareness of conditions of contradiction. A charming, precocious child hawker thwarting Michael's attempts to refuse her flowers. A touch of "Bohemia" in Old Belgrade - music, cobbled streets and ...ugh, chicken livers on my plate! May 7- Hugs and greetings by the children of the Refugee Center, meeting influential educators, communicating through body language, interpreters, smiles, and handshakes; moving from "them" to "us"... Seeing the magic of PFP for the first time; facilitating more than forty adults, youth, and children in play together; mediating the Romany challenges, taking a deep breath, letting go, postponing the seminar; appreciating the leadership and support of colleague. Sharing the investment of committed teachers to preserving joy, cultural education, creativity, self-esteem, and community for the future through their children. Awed by the dramatic efforts of youth and the innocent beauty of pre-school ballerinas. May 8- The U.S. Embassy; investment and trust building with IOCC; broadening contacts, visiting a progressive kindergarten - sharing the painful awareness of little minds through their words and art; caring more and more about the people; admiring once again the dedication of an educator. Ballet as a multimedia, multisensory performance. Erotic Bolero expressing the passion of despair. Absorbing dichotomy - a ballet story of death performed in greys and white, a ballet of new hope performed by pink and white attired preschoolers proud to dance for the "Amerikans." May 9- Crossing into Croatia with ease; driving into Zagreb, red poppies that become our harbingers of hope; locating Michael's old friend and establishing old contacts, responding gently to the physically infirm children greeting us with wary smiles at the Brovincia Refugee Center; visiting a cathedral in rehab, enjoying a marching band, sharing the pleasure of the best tuna sandwich ever! Fine dining with Croatian wine and baked cheese, returning to a drab hotel room, facing Mother's Day without a family. Calling home. May 10- Dialoguing a week in retrospect, self-reflection, exploring the pedestrian malls of a well-maintained downtown, no signs of decline here. Wandering the outdoor flower market under blue skies, gentle breezes, as church bells chime...The rare gift of Croatian homes and hospitality. A traditional Croatian meal in a Croatian restaurant with a Croatian family--Om, pah-pah! Playing in the park, rebuilding relations for the future, caring about the people. Packing again. May 11- Reconnecting with CARITAS, Brovincia Staff--polite in their disappointment as they look for Craig...Playing "Run Rabbit, Run" in a hot sun, chasing balloons the wind gently traps against the fence...Struggling with the language barrier - encouraging English speakers to try, apologizing for our lack of Croatian...A gracious lunch, feeling the needs of the children, encouraging a wheelchair bound friend of Craig's as she sees her strength improved squeezing balls as Craig suggested. A Road trip to Dubrovnik: Croatian countryside, first bullet riddled homes, villages of emptiness and silence. The contrast of the new spring growth and the remnants of death. Reconstruction of tourist areas; cliff high roads; white topped, limestone Dalamation mountains; rocky earth and fields, changing habitats. The exquisite Adriatic coastline, a rose-colored sunset; the lingering fragrance of spring flowers; an irrigation efficient delta; an ancient fortress dressed in lights. Beer and sandwiches, moonlight on the Adriatic, stone steps...blessed sleep caressed by ocean breezes. May 12- Aquamarine water and fishing boats, snapshots of a city of stone, exploring a reconstructed historical treasure...bullet holes and rebuilt rooftops--reminders of a siege or war. Touching the bullet holes...feeling their depth. Monasteries and their treasures--preserving the past and presenting the future...Religion and politics, religion and spirit...Traveling to Medjugorje, the path trod by millions. Simplistic, spiritual beauty of vineyards, and a field of white daisies and red poppies. Too hot...Breaking bread, sharing olives and local wine. Observing the blend of commercialism and faith. May 13- Entering Mostar, sharing coffee with Mauriana from CARITAS, hearing the needs of the people and the lack of support by Western money; visiting Schema Refugee Center. A similar story...money lacking yet awareness of PFP potential. A community healing, a city ravaged by war. Facing the challenge of military patrols, neighborhoods in rubble...passionate anger at what mankind has done to its own. Confronting the dichotomy of a social clientele in a well-heeled, well-stocked hotel lounge with the front line neighborhoods of residential shells and a grubby, homeless middle-aged woman wandering the streets. I feel so small...we can only do this as long as we are there for each other. Crossing the emerald green river filled with light...feeling the Muslim entrapment of natural barriers, driving into another ancient civilization. Honoring role traditions, learning historical beliefs and values, thankful for the rebuilding of mosques and minarets...valuing the pride of an ancient footbridge destroyed by war and the symbol of reconciliation. Enchanted by the Muslim call to prayers echoing in through the valley...Traveling to Sarajevo - destruction more pronounced each mile. Reminding ourselves how improved conditions are now...Frequent military presence--grateful for the NATO peacekeepers giving this place a time to heal...Temporary bridges, scenic countryside, leveled and silent villages, shells of homes being partially occupied. Entering Sarajevo and overcome with silent grief...A city representing Olympic peace besieged into poverty...of spirit, of presence. May 14th- Reconnected with Catholic Relief Services. PFP under consideration for Bosnia. Leaving the city to return to Belgrade...a hillside cemetery. Moslems and Christians buried together...the Christians within the crescent of the white Moslem headstones. Lush, cloud-forest beauty in the mountains. Another contrast - the rebirth of nature amidst the ravages of mankind. A community warmed by mountains of wood...Winding mountain roads to Tusla...a coal burning power plant, airborne fumes, U.S. military presence...the Srpska corridor. Trucks lined up at customs, ferried across the Sava River by barge past an unfinished bridge...always the reminders of war. Returning to a place of familiarity--Belgrade. May 15th- Play works! Again, the power of its engagement as folks step out of their bias and fear to laugh, to share...offers a poignancy, a potential reality that is satisfying, filled with hope. The day reviewed...a metaphor for peace. Lessons, together as friends, colleagues, partners; crossing values and cultures, unified by a goal, a common task. May 16th- Exit meeting with IOCC, a common intent...planning for the future. Saying good-bye to Belgrade. Area is a part of us...no longer war torn countries "in the Balkans"...personal now - names, faces, hope and dreams...We have seen the sunset over the Danube, shared a glimpse of Balkan countries, empathized with despair. A parting memory...a woman dressed in black, her print-covered bowed head, prostrate, alone on the sidewalk, the busy city bustles by, a small pouch before her...hands in supplication, begging silently for the compassion of others. Symbolic? Perhaps. Budapest welcomes us again with a cleansing rain, blessing our trip with a double rainbow touching the steeples of a medieval church. A covenant with the universe...the promise of a new beginning. Peace begins with one person - a Michael, a Craig, a Richard, a Lisi, a Laurie, a Bill...so many others. Now, like the song, "Let it begin with me." For more information about Play for Peace, call 847-520-1444, or visit our web site at www.playforpeace.org.
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